Radiator is a type of heat exchanger that absorbs or gives off heat for automotive and combustion engines.

When temperature is not controlled and the engine continuous to heat up, the engine becomes stocked up, thus, over-heat occurs. A radiator is necessary to stabilize the temperature within the system. Also, it is used to control and to regulate the expansion of parts of the engine, more importantly the moving parts. Lastly, a radiator is necessary to control and set the combustion area to a desired or designed environment for an efficient operation.

The reason why you intend to change your radiator is because it is already malfunctioning. One of the reasons of its malfunction is because it has already reached its life expectancy. If you replace it with a surplus radiator or a used radiator for that matter, you have not solved the problem.

When you buy surplus items, you are paying for something which you have limited information about. There is no information as to where it is from, as to how it was initially used, as to who you should go after in case it proves to be defective. You will just end up losing in the end. A surplus radiator is most likely at the end of its normal life expectancy and you buy it with no warranty. Whereas, for a diminutive additional amount, you can buy a new radiator with a life expectancy of around 100,000 kms or 5 or more years of usage with proper care. Remember, the reason why a radiator has been replaced is because it is no good anymore so why buy it? In addition, new radiators come with warranties.

If we are talking about durability, Brass-Copper Radiator is the better option. Plastic tank and rubber gasket can be damaged by excessive heat unlike brass tank and soldered materials that have high heat resistance properties. Considering the tropical conditions in the Philippines and adding to it the condition of the engine when it is running, brass-copper radiator is advised as it is battle tested to be heavy duty.

If we are to consider longevity or even maintenance, brass copper radiators are known to be susceptible to repairs, unlike its plastic counterpart. This information is significant since most people keep their vehicles longer than the average lifespan of a "stock" radiator. Human instinct will tell us to find ways of prolonging the life of our old radiator, the available solution of course is having it repaired. This option however is only available when we are talking about Brass-Copper Radiators and unfortunately not to plastic ones.

One option to prolong the use of a malfunctioning radiator is having it repaired. However, just like any other repaired items, there is no assurance as to how long it will function well. If you are considering having your radiators repaired, prepare yourself that most definitely it will have less cooling efficiency and unsatisfactory heat transfer. Sure it might temporarily serve its function, but problems recur at times least expected. There is no price to pay for a worry free ride. Ever had a radiator overheat in the middle of night? In the middle of a traffic? Surely not a case of a simple flat tire here.

Be careful not to damage the radiator core during the installation process. Check proper clamping of hose to pipe. Check proper connection of over flow pipe hose to reservoir. Check correct clearance from engine (fan/shroud). After installation, there must be no damage around radiator core. Flush the vehicle's cooling system prior to installation of your new radiator. Failure to do so may leave harmful contaminants in your vehicle's cooling system that could plug the tubes in your new radiator or cause it to fail early. Maintain good condition of the thermostat and gasket Use new coolant/antifreeze in your cooling system. Regular cooling system preventive maintenance will help extend life of your new radiator. Recommended ratio: 70% distilled water and 30% coolant. Check your radiator hose for cracks, soft, or swollen areas. Replace if necessary. After the radiator is installed, leave the radiator cap off, and let the vehicle idle for approximately 10 minutes to make sure that the coolant/antifreeze is flowing inside the radiator. Flowing coolant will indicate that the new radiator is operating suitably. Look for coolant leaks throughout the cooling system and under the vehicle. Monitor your temperature gauge for the next few days to verify that the vehicle is operating in the normal range for the vehicle. Never open your radiator cap until you are sure that the vehicle is cool. Thus, never open the radiator cap of a car that is overheating. When you will use welding and grinding process during installation of your new radiator, cover the radiator core. Avoid welding sparks to hit the radiator core. Make sure your radiator cap passed the opening pressure standard. Standard opening pressure for radiator cap 0.9 kgs./cm2 ( ± 0.15 ) 1.1 kgs./cm2 ( ± 0.15 )

The louver on cooling fins should be free from dirt and mud. Clean using soft brush made of brass material. Spray the dirt in the radiator core with water. Make sure that the radiator cooling fins are not deformed. Since straight fin is good for air penetration in the core. Note that poor penetration of air inside the core reduces heat transfer from tube/fin to air. Correct/fix the deformed cooling fins using duck pin pliers. Avoid damaging the water tubes. Maintain the water tubes in good condition to ensure normal water circulation inside radiator. Replace with new radiator if tubes are severely damaged. Conduct monthly checking of the radiator cap's opening pressure. Replace with new radiator cap if opening pressure failed the radiator cap test.

Drain the coolant in the radiator assembly. Then, remove the radiator carefully. Remove bolts, accessories, hose clamp and hose. In doing this, prevent damage around radiator core. Remove the upper left hand/right hand bracket and upper tank of radiator. Soak the radiator in water and wait for 5 to 10 minutes to soften the clog inside water tubes. Remove the clog on water tubes using special tool. Never use sharp or pointed tools in doing this. Use the special tool with radius end. Remove the clog with continuous flow of water. Assemble the radiator, solder left hand/right hand bracket and fully solder upper tank. Test the radiator for water leak. (standard test pressure: 1.2 kg/cm2) Wash radiator to remove flux. Re-paint the radiator prior installation.

One may easily overlook the radiator cap, but its function in a well operating cooling system is substantial. A defective cap can result in overheating, loss of coolant or even severe engine damage, so it is crucial that the radiator cap is inspected occasionally and replaced if needed.

1.Check only when the engine is cool, with the engine off, place a rag over the cap and remove it. Turn it counterclockwise about 1/4-turn until it reaches the safety stop. Allow all pressure to vent before removing the cap by pressing down and turning it counter-clockwise. On some vehicles, the radiator cap is located on the overflow reservoir. Once the cap is removed, pressure test the cap noting the maximum pressure when the cap valve opens. Caps come in a variety of pressure ranges: 4-pound caps (3-5 lbs.), 7- pound caps (6-8 lbs.), 13- or 14-pound caps (12-16 lbs.) and 15- or 16-pound caps (14-18 lbs.). The cap should be replaced if it fails to hold the rated pressure for one minute. Using a cap with the wrong pressure rating can cause over pressurization.

Underwent and passed different radiator quality and durability tests such as vibration test, pressure fatigue test, and road test; Radiators used for Mitsubishi Adventure & Mitsubishi L300 were proven to last for at least six years; Durable inlet-outlet pipe connection since silver brazing method was used between pipe connections; Fully-soldered in all connected parts thus, preventing leak; Bracket and accessory joint is durable because it was connected using spot welding machine; Radiator materials and all welded parts passed the nugget test; Higher corrosion resistance since radiators passed different tests such as salt spray test, hardness test, and adhesion test; Underwent correct pre-painting procedures such as chemical washing, water rinsing and drying prior to painting; Have higher cooling capacity compared to other brands because Evercool Radiators have more water tubes and cooling fins for better heat transfer, thus, are made suitable for tropical weather and even extreme conditions; All materials used comply with Japanese International Standard (JIS); Made by an ISO 9001:2008 Certified Company that strictly follows the quality management system standards; 100% leak testing, jig fit checking and appearance checking of all radiators; Conforms to OEM world class standards and also to ISO international standards; Carefully crafted by well-trained people; and All radiators undergo proper packaging, handling and delivery

  • Value for money
  • Conforms to standards
  • Good product quality
  • With warranty against manufacturing defects
  • Durable
  • Guaranteed worry free

There are two types of Evercool Radiators available: Corrugated Fin Radiator common type of radiator used in automotive CG TYPE usually used for cars and compact AUV number of tube rows ranges from 1 to 3 with smaller tube pitch and higher number of water tubes per row CD TYPE used for all types of vehicles, from small cars to big buses/trucks number of rows ranges from 1 to 6 for standard vehicle models number of rows ranges from 3 to 12 for heavy equipment, large generators and special order radiators 2. Flat Fin / Straight Fin Radiator type of radiator also used for heavy equipment and large generators, this type has the same OEM quality and cooling efficiency but the design focuses more on durability

In the life of a car’s radiator, there may be some build up in its passageways, causing it to clog and not bring all of the antifreeze solution to the engine, which increases the possibility of overheating. During these times, it’s time to check if your radiator is clogged. If there is material stuck inside, here are some steps on how you can clean it. Make sure that the car engine is turned off and cool. Opening the radiator cap while the engine is still warm is not a good idea, as the internal pressure might cause the radiator fluid to shoot up, causing injury. Also, it is unwise to clean a radiator while the engine is turned on as the fluid passes to and from the engine, interfering with the engine’s overall performance and the cleaning process. While the radiator is cooling, place a small bucket underneath it. This will serve as your catch basin for the debris and other particles that might come out from the radiator when you clean it. Once the radiator is no longer warm, open the cap and place radiator flush solution inside. What this does is remove all the dirt and gunk inside the pipes that prevent it from working properly. This also lubricates the water pump inside, extending its life. Let the flush solution stay inside the radiator for about 5-10 minutes for a good clean. When that’s over, plug a hose over the top of the radiator opening and flush out the solution. You should see the dirt particles and grime wash out in the bucket you put underneath.

The hose that guides the antifreeze solution to the engine is also prone to wear and tear. In order to replace it you must do the following:

  • Let the car cool – Again, it is unwise to do anything while the engine is still hot, as the antifreeze could shoot out due to pressure and cause further injury.
  • Drain the coolant – You wouldn’t want any amount of coolant to interfere with the replacement process.
  • Install new hose – Unclamp the old hose with a screwdriver and put the new hose in place. Secure it with the clamps.
  • Refill the coolant – Go for a test drive so the new radiator fluid cycles from the engine to the radiator.